yesterday, in my administrative capacity, i was filling out three forms that the shenzhen public security bureau, division of exit-entry (深圳市公安局出入境) requires requires employers to submit for their foreign employees. the one unexpected lining in this otherwise redundant raincloud (we have actually submitted all this information previously, albeit on different forms), was the drop down windows that required me to choose an answer because filling in the blanks was not part of the program. i hadn’t realized that human beings came in six possible “sex-genders (性别)” [female (女), male changed into a female (男性改为女性), unexplained sex (未说明的性别), male (男), female changed into a male (女性改为男性), and unknown sex (未知的性别)], but only four “skin colors (肤色)” [yellow (黄), white (白), black (黑), and brown (棕)]. the data form with the funky drop down windows (外国人居留情况记表 foreigners residence situation form) is available online.
福田保税区: containers: blooms
administratively speaking, the term “shenzhen special economic zone” refers to nanshan, futian, luohu and yantian districts. baoan and longgang districts lay beyond what was once called the second line (二线) and is now more commonly referred to as outside the gate (关外). if memory serves, this linguistic shift took place several (2? 3?) years ago, echoing the loosening of border restrictions between the special economic zone and the rest of china. previously, chinese people needed special travel passes (通行证) to come to the sez. they also needed temporary residence permits (暂住证) to live and work here. to enjoy public benefits such as subsidized housing, medical care, and education for their children, they needed shenzhen household residency (深圳户口). as far as most chinese people were concerned, getting into the sez was like getting into a foreign country. thus, perhaps, the reason for another linguistic shift. very early into reform, shenzhen inhabitants (not all of whom were residents) started using the expression the interior (内地) not simply to refer to non-coastal regions (a question of relative geography), but also un-opened areas (a political-economic classification), including parts of guangdong.
(a word of warning on the use of words: when speaking mandarin, i have a tendency to use geographical terms from the perspective of shenzhen. this means i will say “the north (北方)” and mean “north of guangdong” and not “north of the yangtze,” which is more common in other parts of china. in the nineties, i actually heard shenzhen inhabitants refer to guangzhou as the interior, a classification few chinese in other cities would have come up with, let alone used in casual conversation. what’s interesting is that i use northern linguistic conventions when speaking in (admittedly americanized) english, where beijing seems to dominate our cognitive maps of china.)
what was special about shenzhen was that things could happen here that couldn’t happen elsewhere–factories built outside the national five-year plan, foreign investment on chinese soil, the creation of job and real estate markets, and the commodification of pleasure in ways that had once been condemned as bourgeois impediments to the revolution. the designation of land to meet particular political economic goals was common during the mao era. what was special about shenzhen, was that it was more about economic than political goals and this version of zoning spread quickly. in 1984, the government opened the fourteen coastal cities, in 1985 the three special deltas, and in 1992 much of the country.
all this reforming and opening of the interior meant that shenzhen was no longer special. clearly, after the death of deng and the ascension of jiang zemin, it became common to talk of shanghai, rather than shenzhen, as the harbinger of china’s global future. and so, shenzhen intensified the use of zoning to achieve economic competitiveness. at almost every administrative level (city, district, market town, street administration, and new village) as well as ministerial levels, shenzhen has opened various kinds of economic zones. some are simply new village factory areas and have no special status outside the village’s status, others are administratively recognized industrial and free trade zones with corresponding legal perks. thus, one of shenzhen’s three free trade zones, the futian district free trade zone abuts huanggang and shuiwei factory areas, which are roughly two kilometers from what will become the futian technology park.
saturday, i walked through the futian free trade zone. i was struck, once again, by the contradictions of development in shenzhen. this time specifically by that between industrial manufacturing and the city’s mandate to become a green city. the futian free trade zone aspires to be a garden in the midst of the city and in part succeeds. here, large buildings nestle behind landscapes of fake mountains and imported trees, while container trucks rumble down tree-lined boulevards. outside the barbed wire fence that separates shenzhen from hong kong, the shenzhen river burps up less methane than it did a few years ago. i photographed containers in bloom.
updates, or, where fat bird fits in the commodification of shenzhen’s emergent cultural landscape
the following two updates on godot and the nanfang daily’s cultural avant garde popularity contest give a sense of where fat bird fits into the commodification of shenzhen’s emergent cultural landscape. it also gives a sense of contradictions within this landscape and the various ways actors are positioning themselves to shape shenzhen’s cultural scene as well as to control the resources that have been both budgeted to and generated by that scene.
update number one: godot, we performed on december 28 and 29. after both shows, members of the audience made comments about the play that point to diverse and sometimes contradictory assumptions about what shenzhen theatre should be. significantly, comments were grounded in the subjunctive (what theatre “should be”) rather than the declarative (what theatre “is”) because most of fat bird’s audience assume that shenzhen lacks culture and (therefore) fat bird is helping to establish the conditions for local arts. accordingly, most actively encourage fat bird, whether or not they personally like what we do.
from a professional director, trained in beijing and semi-retired to shenzhen, “not bad (还不错). godot leaves room for directorial interpretation so it was interesting to see what judi did with it.”
from an elementary school teacher, who hasn’t seen much theatre, “this was fun, but i didn’t understand what you were trying to do. maybe next time.”
from a foreign teacher, who doesn’t understand chinese, “now i think i’ll go home and read the script.”
how does this fit into the commodification of shenzhen’s cultural landscape? although fat bird began preparing godot outside official auspices, in september, cong rong (从容), secretary of the shenzhen theatre arts federation (深圳市戏剧家协会) approached us about participating in shenzhen’s creative creative december theatre (创意12月剧场), program here. now, cong rong wasn’t given enough money to stage an entire festival, but in order to get funding next year she still had to produce a festival. this meant she had to come up with pieces that had been independently produced, but would nevertheless be part of creative december. she also decided to use most of the funding to produce two of her own plays, the language of flowers《有一种花的语言》and blue symphony 《蓝色交响曲》, hiring professional directors and actors at standard rates. this decision meant that she had to find collaborators who would work for a nominal stipend. her choices for collaborators included shenzhen university department of acting, the various cultural bureaus of the district governements, and fat bird. i’m not sure if she approached any of the district cultural bureaus, but she did approach shenzhen university and fat bird. shenzhen university had two plays that could go up in december, into the woods, and basement dwellers《坑人》, while fat bird was preparing godot. both the university directors and fat bird remain more interested in performance venues than revenue, consequently, the creative december theatre consisted of the aforementioned plays.
this is the second year that shenzhen has sponsored creative december (创意12月), a program designed to encourage cultural development in the city, combatting or countering what has come to be ironically known as “desert theory (沙漠理论),” which refers to ideas about why shenzhen continues to lack world reknowned cultural institutions and artists. complete program and contacts, here. tellingly, one of the activities designed to encourage general citizen participation in creative december was an online competion to select the top ten shenzhen cultural activity brands (文化活动品牌), including: the much hyped annual china (shenzhen) international cultural industry fair (中国(深圳)国际文化产业博览交易会), the relatively obscure popularizing sociology week (社会科学普及周), and the provincially supported international tourism festival (深圳国际旅游文化节). all of the twenty candidates for best cultural activity brand have come into existence in the past few years. more interestingly, perhaps, is that efforts to create art and spaces for the arts in shenzhen are explicitly tied to developing cultural markets, even as shenzhen’s top cultural products (animation, computer games, advertizing) are dismissed as not being cultural precisely because these industries have been so commericially successful (see this entry for my take on fat bird’s participation in the 2006 cultural industry fair). at any rate, for the curious, the commplete cultural activities brand ballot is here although results have not yet been posted.
update number two: contest results, as you know, the nanfang daily nominated fat bird as one of shenzhen’s top ten cultural avant garde labels or tags (文化先锋标签), which i mistranslated as “postcard” in a previous post. thanks to a technological intervention, we placed second. it turns out that the voting was not limited by computer or site visits, so anyone who went to the site could vote for fat bird as often as they wanted. accordingly, i went the first night and happily voted one hundred times. however, by day two, we were already about 10,000 votes behind the leader and i gave up, realizing that i wouldn’t spend more time voting than i already had, the hard realities of clicking tempering what might have been my shameless pursuit of first place. on day three, one of our members downloaded an automatic clicker program, that hit the vote button once a second for as long as the program ran. given the final tallies, i suspect we weren’t the only candidate resorting to technology to buttress our populary. as qin wei said, “i’m not even computer literate and i found this program. of course the other candidates have already downloaded their own, if they haven’t already.” for those in need, an automatic clicker can be downloaded here.
this popularity contest was part of a two-day conference on the avant garde city (先锋城市). this conference ran both parallel to and within creative december, with a slightly different focus on cultural production, focusing on the socio-cultural meaning of the avant garde. this conference gained its political import from the fact that in 2005, the shenzhen bureau of urban planning published its 2030 urban development strategy (深圳2030城市发展策略), which called for shenzhen to become a pioneering global city with sustainable development (可持续发展的全球先锋城市). what’s interesting here, and the nanfang daily’s point of intervention is the word “xianfeng”, which is usually translated as “avant garde” and not “pioneering”, although both definitions appear in the dictionary. in previous development strategies, shenzhen’s pioneering function was described with the word “kaituo 开拓,” which originally meant (long, long ago) to remove rocks from a field but came to mean the emperor’s opening of new administrative territory. so in the eighties, for example, the first generation of shenzhen immigrants were called territory openers (开拓者: pioneers) and not the avant garde (先锋: pioneers). moreover, this is the first time shenzhen has explicitly called for efforts to strengthen its leadership position (vis a vis the rest of the country), which had previously been assumed, so that in the 1996-2010 shenzhen urban plan, for example, the city aimed to become an international modern city (国际现代化城市), which was, at the time, a pioneering position.
at the conference, expert guests produced two lists: one of china’s avant garde cities (shenzhen placed fifth overall) and one of shenzhen’s avant garde labels. alas, fat bird didn’t place in the top ten even though we performed “this body, this movements” at the conference and yang qian was one of the invited experts. neverthelesss, what was interesting here was that although the experts focused on creativity, they nevertheless designated the meaning of avant garde in political terms: “expermentation, investigation, tolerance, and freedom (实验、探索、包容、自由).” consequently, their list of cultural avant garde labels included, like the cultural brands of creative december, institutions rather than individuals.
the nanfang daily conference on the avant garde city was designed to provide a space for thinking critically about the position of creativity in shenzhen’s cultural development. in contrast, creative december was organized to promote city activities. consequently, this december fat bird participated in two very different versions of what shenzhen’s cultural landscape should look like. significantly, both these versions represent views held by shenzheners who are positioned differently with respect to the chinese state apparatus. the shenzhen theatre arts federation is connected to but not directly under the shenzhen bureau of culture, which makes them financially dependent on the city, unless they can come up with commercially viable theatre. the nanfang daily is connected to but not directly under the guangdong ministry of propaganda. this makes them answerable to guangdong, rather than any particular city. as such, the nanfang daily has actually created local markets for itself by being critical not only of shenzhen, but all of guangdong’s cities, except guangzhou, the provincial capital. when i asked several newspaper reporters why guangdong tolerated criticism of its second city,the response was usually a chuckle and then social analysis.
“guangdong doesn’t like shenzhen,” one explained, “because the city is too independent. it answers primarily to beijing rather than guangzhou.”
“it [the nanfang daily] is using media events to create a shenzhen market,” another reasoned. “the special economic zone daily and other papers still have to listen to the shenzhen government. the only way to compete is to create an alternative shenzhen voice.”
a more optimistic journalist suggested that there were a few officials who wanted to increase freedom of the press in china. “after all, if shenzhen succeeds in becoming an experimental, investigative, tolerant, and free avant garde city, it will be good for the country.”
synopsis: fat bird, like other shenzhen art groups and inviduals, survives by navigating these diverse political currents, which are shaping the city’s cultural landscape. sometimes, straddling the fence works. both the organizers of creative december and the avant garde city paid fat bird to participate in their events, making 2006 the first year we almost broke even! happy new year.
christmas spirit
last year, i posted images of the huaqiangbei christmas pumpkin. this year, i’ve decided to post pictures of yang qian performing one of his favorite roles–santa at the kindergarten. we improvized the beard last minute and the result was something like santa meets beijing opera. the big red nose, square beard, and rounded eyes echo, albeit faintly, the conventions for clown roles.
we’ve approached debates on whether or not chinese people should celebrate christmas in the spirit of kindergarten, where whatever you do or don’t believe, it’s a wonderful thing to give gifts to children.
theatre in shenzhen
i have just published two companion pieces on theatre in shenzhen. the first, “Attracting the World’s Attention (举世瞩目): The Cultural Supplement in Shenzhen Municipality” looks at the uses and abuses of theatre in shenzhen. it was published in positions: east asian cultures critique 14:1 (Spring 2006), 67-97. the second, “The Ambiguous Possibilities of Social- and Self-Transformation in Late Socialist Worlds, or, What the Fox Might Have Said about Inhabiting Shenzhen” analyzes an earlier fat bird piece that was made in collaboration with kuo jinghong. it can be found in TDR: The Drama Review Volume 50, Number 4 (T 192), Winter 2006, 96-119.
vote for fat bird!!!
we’ve been nominated in the south china daily’s “shenzhen’s btop ten avant-garde culture postcard(深圳十大先锋文化标签评选)” competition. we’re not yet sure who nominated us, or how we got on the list but we’re up against a building and dafen oil painting village, among other examplars of the shenzhen avant-garde. this in itself is interesting; these postcard competitions seem to be about branding (shenzhen as a hotbed of art as known through its architecture, museums, classical pianists, and university?!) and also about turning these examplars into images that can be put on a postcard. in which case, fat bird can be made equivalent to an artist’s village that sells reproductions to wallmart. what’s more, the picture on the ballet isn’t of us, but from the theatre practice’s september visit. if none of this fazes you, and you if you find online popularity contests amusing, please go here to cast your vote for 深圳胖鸟剧团. we’re contestant number 27 . go here to read the southern daily’s take on our approach to performance.
houhai monuments–found objects
it’s been over six months since i last walked this particular section of houhai. the road has been laid and now traverses the entire site. they’re even planting trees as part of shenzhen’s ongoing efforts to become a garden city. i snapped away, aware that houhai has yet to disappoint me; something there always fascinates. indeed, houhai has been central to found objects. i found teapot there, brought most of the other objects there, and have retuned to photograph the unmovable objects i have stumbled upon there.
lately, i’ve been thinking about my houhai fascination and suddenly realized that i am drawn to objects and sites that seem monumental, in all sences of that word. large, of course, so large that the scale of transformation slips away from my efforts to conceptualize it. but also, evocative of time and its passage. the monument commemorates some past event, keeping particular memories at play in shared worlds. indeed, the monument holds time in place, so that we might create a shared worlds.
and yet. the objects i photograph only gain their monumentality in digitalized retrospect, although sometimes i actually print an image. but on any ordinary day, the objects come and go, without comment, changing what houhai might mean, begging the question of whether or not houhai participates in a shared world before something “permanent” is constructed. on houhai, only buildings and streets are named. the rest vanishes.
today, in addition to the trees, i’ve uploaded a few houhai monuments, from the past few years.
mallratting
lately our eating habits have changed. we’re spending less time in small restaurants and more time in what might be provisionally called high-end chinese chains, which are located in new upscale malls. unlike upscale malls built in the late 90s, which emphasized designer shopping, but american fastfood dining (in diwang, for example, the chains include kfc and tgi fridays and there’ a taco bell in the mix), these new malls seem to have better teashops and restaurants. the food is better, the decor is nicer, and the spaces more relaxed; the emphasis is on pleasurable dining, but pleasure all around. indeed, these new malls offer some of the cleanest and aesthetically pleasing environments in shenzhen. my latest occassional hangout is coco park, or 购物公园 (shopping park), where super cow provides really tasty grilled meats and several japanese resturants tempt me. at the garden city mall (花园城), next to the shekou wallmart, another chain 6,000 restaurant (六千馆) serves a delicious twist on the hotpot. it is located next to a very popular dim sum restaurant, where on weekends families and friends wait as long as an hour for a table.
in jr high and high school, i spent an embarrassing amount of time at the rockaway mall, watching movies and eating junkfood. roughly 25 years later i find myself once again mallratting, but this time it really is for the food.
old shekou
this weekend judi, xiaomei and i went costume shopping. as they figured out a look for a female pozzo, i wandered the streets of old shekou, wondering when these scenes of early reform would be replaced with more contemporary versions of modernity. once upon a time, only twenty years ago, shekou was new and improved, a beacon for shenzhen’s trail blazers, who had come to build a special economic zone without any idea what that might mean. at the time, even if these latterday pioneers spoke of reform in quite uncertain terms: feeling the rocks to cross the river (摸着石头过河), nevertheless they also spoke of a particular energy: the shenzhen spirit. hopeful, young, at the cusp. today, that world is already outdated and those young visionaries middle-aged. i have posted a few scenes of old shekou.







