Before Shijie and Dafu opened their restaurant, 「主局·韩式炸猪蹄」, they had decided not to offer takeout service. Many of their friends have told them, “if you don’t provide take out service from your restaurant, you’ll never survive in Shenzhen.” Handshake 302 was curious to hear their story and to understand the reasons behind their decision. We also wondered, “how important is takeout to an individual restaurant owner? Can a restaurant survive without offering takeout service?” Consequently, we invited them to be the special guests of the third edition of Singleton Takeout. Frankly speaking, we learned a lot from their honest thoughts about their new endeavor. 

In fact, Shenzhen’s food geography is larger than the city. It includes the farms where food is produced, the logistical systems for bringing food into the city, local networks for distributing food to restaurants for preparation, delivery networks as well as housing for delivery boys, and places for consuming food. Against this larger background, takeout is only one part of a much larger system for distributing food. Has it become the most important feature of Shenzhen’s food geography? Or are there other factors to consider?

One of the guests was an urban planner, she reminded us that food production, distribution and consumption are realized in particular spaces. We often overlook the connections between these diverse spaces, focusing instead on the one space that its most important to us. However, the organization of these spaces is an important consideration in determining the social costs of eating. These are especially important considerations to restaurant owners when they are deciding whether or not to offer takeout service.

So what are the boss’s main concerns when deciding whether or not to provide takeout service?

Brick and mortar restaurants and takeout service are two different spatial models. Traditional restaurants combine the functions of producing and consuming food in the same space. People go to these restaurants in order to have a meal that can only be eaten there. For these bosses, the main considerations for attracting customers are: is the food unique enough to attract customers? Is it convenient to get to the restaurant? When people come to the restaurant what kind of experience will they have?

In contrast, the “takeout model” separates spaces of food production and consumption. For these bosses, concerns include: will the food still be tasty after being in a container for half an hour? Are there enough customers within a half an hour radius by electric bike to meet everyday expenses? What is the takeout company’s percentage of the cost of the food?

The spatial models of traditional restaurants and takeout service directly impact the kinds of food that can be prepared and served or prepared and delivered. Traditional restaurants like 主局 can offer fried foods that are served hot and tasty because it is a short distance from the kitchen to the customers table. These restaurants can also include food presentation as part of the meal. In contrast, the best foods for takeout delivery won’t easily spoil and don’t need to be served in any special way. 

The spatial considerations of food preparation and consumption inspired conversation: trust, personal taste, and how takeout was transforming the restaurant business. After all, if Shijie and Dafu are forced by circumstances to provide takeout, then key selling points of their trotters—fried flavor and a party presentation—will have to change. The layout of their kitchen will have to change to make a smooth assembly line for takeout meals. And their business model will also have to change, shifting their focus from generating clientele among the visitors to Nantou Ancient City to creating an online presence to attract takeout orders. 

The bosses’ food geography. Just one more topic that is being explored in Handshake 302’s relational aesthetic artwork, Singleton Take-out.